A recent expedition through Kisumu, Siaya, and Homa Bay counties has highlighted the complex and often contradictory nature of rural economies 13 years into devolved governance.

• The author walked 170.5 km across the three counties, highlighting the impact of devolution on local communities.
• The expedition included visits to islands such as Mbita/Rusinga, Takawiri, and Mfangano.
• Hikers received significant positive reception from local communities, suggesting an underlying connection despite economic challenges.